Flat Shoes: Why Flatlining Is Now the Height of Fashion
平底鞋:时尚新高度

(选自《英语世界》2015年第5期)

We’re moving out of the complex fug of the high heel and into a whole new era of flats and mid-heels.
我们正走出高跟鞋的繁复冗杂,跨入平底鞋和中跟鞋的崭新时代。

文/莉萨•阿姆斯特朗 译/谢峤
By Lisa Armstrong

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Wearing heels – it’s complicated, isn’t it? A little bit of empowerment and a whole lot of disempowerment, particularly when you can’t run and your bunions are throbbing like a nuclear power station. There’s a raft of  contradictory indicators involved in shoe altitude, such as wanting to look very expensive and a bit trashy at the same time, and I’m afraid we just don’t have the space to explore them all today.
高跟鞋,真是麻烦,不是吗?高跟鞋的弊绝对大于利,尤其当你跑不动,拇囊炎疼得像核电站要爆炸的时候。关于什么样的鞋高档,有着一大堆自相矛盾的指标,比如既要看起来价格不菲又要有些不咋样。鉴于篇幅有限,我今天恐怕无法一一道来。

[2] In any case, we’re moving out of the complex fug of the high heel and into a whole new era of flats and mid-heels. Shoes you can walk, run and feel comfortable in. What’s that all about? The economy is what, according to a new report linking the nation’s flatlining finances with… flat shoes. Who employs these people? The economy’s been tanking since at least 2008. Louboutin  did a 6½-inch heel in 2011.
不管怎样,我们正走出高跟鞋的繁复冗杂,跨入平底鞋和中跟鞋的崭新时代,这些鞋子散步、跑步穿起来都很舒适。怎么回事?一份新的报告认为跟经济有关,该报告把国家一蹶不振的财政状况与平底鞋联系了起来。谁雇的这帮人?至少2008年以来,经济形势就一直糟透了,而鲁布托2011年才推出 6.5英寸的高跟鞋。

[3] No my friends, this is about fashion. Fashion is tired of the killer heel. It doesn’t see any future in the relationship. As far as fashion’s concerned, it has given its all trying to make things work. Louboutin toiled day and night to produce a shoe that, technically, functioned. But there are limits to the ingenuity of even the greatest, most optimistic shoeman. After 6½ inches, you’ve reached the logical and practical terminus of the heel: there’s nowhere to go but down.
跟经济无关,朋友们,其实就是时尚。时尚界厌倦了“恨天高”。高跟鞋与时尚缘尽于此。就时尚而言,为了维系这段感情,它已经尽力了。鲁布托为创作出一双鞋,技术上要求实用的鞋,日以继夜地工作。但即使是最伟大、最乐观的制鞋人,独创性也是有限的。6.5英寸高的鞋子已达到了鞋跟在合理性与实用性方面的终极:只能盛极而衰。

[4] The mid-heel is going to be the chic evening choice in the seasons to come. Listening to designers who decried it as the epitome of middle age to talk it up as the acme of style will be very entertaining.
在接下来的时装季,中跟鞋将成为别致的晚装选择。有些设计师曾把中跟鞋贬为人到中年的象征,现在要听他们把中跟鞋捧成顶级风尚真是太有意思了。

[5] For daytime, however, the really fashionable choice will be a flat shoe. Hip designers such as Nicholas Kirkwood and Tabitha Simmons, both Brits, report a big upsurge in demand, a sign that women are willing to invest a considerable number of pennies on flats.
不过,在白天,平底鞋才是真正的时尚之选。一些走在时尚前沿的设计师称,平底鞋需求大幅增加,这是女性愿意为其豪掷千金的一个迹象,英国设计师尼古拉斯•柯克伍德和塔比莎•西蒙斯就是其中的两位。

[6] To be honest, the flattie always has been popular down on the streets. As Louboutin was scaling new heights, the average girl about town was running around in ballet flats. These have been a staple of the shoe wardrobe for more than a decade. When they weren’t on our feet, they were in our handbags and totes, waiting to release us from the torture of higher, flashier, less considerate shoes. There wasn’t much of a flattie alternative: brogues and trainers were mooted, but perhaps because of the way they covered the foot, they just weren’t as flattering with the ubiquitous skinny jean.
说实话,平底鞋一直是街头巷尾的流行款式。鲁布托为鞋跟设计新的高度时,城里的普通女孩正穿着芭蕾平底鞋到处游逛。十多年来,平底鞋一直是鞋柜的主要款式。不穿的时候,它们就待在我们的手包提兜里,等着帮我们摆脱更高、更炫却不够体贴的鞋子所带来的折磨。没有什么可以替代平底鞋:粗革皮鞋和运动鞋都不大可能,也许因为鞋型的缘故,它们与普遍穿的紧身牛仔裤并不搭调。

[7] But now it really does seem to be nail-in-the-coffin time for ballet shoes. The looser silhouettes coming our way don’t quite work with them. Nor does the “new” fishtailed calf-length skirt.
不过,现在似乎真到了芭蕾鞋寿终正寝的时候了,因为它跟正流行起来的宽松款式的服装以及“新款”过膝鱼尾短裙都不搭。

[8] The brogue, however, does. Brogues, along with loafers, have been invading fashion for a few years, but soon they’ll be inescapable. Céline ’s chunky white loafer, with its doorstoppingly  thick sole, is the kind of shoe only a cognoscente highly attuned to  the arcane aspects of footwear could love. The brogue has also been um, rebooted and elevated on to tractor style “flat-forms” at Prada, or hybridised with a PVC clog and hoisted on to even higher “flat-forms” at Stella McCartney . The model Agyness Deyn has just designed a summer flat for Dr Martens, a school-style sandal on a huge, spongiform sole. So now you don’t even have to be tall to wear flats.
但是,粗革皮鞋和它们却很配。粗革皮鞋和船鞋攻入时尚界已有些年头,但很快它们就会大行其道。赛琳的白色宽跟船鞋有着门吸般的厚底,只有深谙鞋履之道的行家才会喜爱。粗革皮鞋,呃,还被普拉达改头换面,加高到坡跟式“平底”。斯特拉•麦卡特尼还将其与聚氯乙烯木底鞋混合,提为更高的“平底”。模特阿格妮丝•迪恩刚刚为马丁靴品牌设计了一款夏季平底鞋,这是种校园风格的凉鞋,鞋底硕大,呈海绵状。因此,现在不必非得是高个子才能穿平底鞋了。

[9] What you do require is a certain attitude. Flats bespeak confidence. They encourage a slouchy, hand-in-pockets insouciance. You’re meant to wear both trousers and shoes with floppy shirts and sloppy jumpers, and adopt a quietly unassuming manner that suggests that even if you have just stepped off a Margaret Howell  catwalk, your mind is on loftier matters – peace in the Middle East say.
你所需要的是某种态度。平底鞋显示自信,宣扬一种手揣兜里的慵懒轻松。你应该穿长裤、平底鞋,搭配松垮的衬衫及宽大的套头衫,还要摆出一副安静、谦逊的姿态,就好像即使刚参加完玛格丽特•豪厄尔的走秀,你心里也装着更崇高的事情,比如中东地区的和平问题。

[10] Is this why the Duchess of Cornwall wore her posh plimsolls the other day? Whatever the reason, she looked stylish and youthful, the PP having become a modern classic. It was Emma Hope  who first thought up the PP. In the beginning, not everyone could see the point, but its enduring popularity has spawned a whole genre of dressing, Dress Down Luxury.
难道这就是康沃尔公爵夫人那天穿高档橡胶底帆布鞋的原因吗?无论如何,她看上去又时髦又年轻,而这款鞋也成为了一种现代经典。是埃玛•霍普第一个想到了这种鞋。一开始,并不是人人都能明白其中的奥妙,但是它的经久不衰却引发了全新的着装风格——休闲奢华之风。

[11] Hope has been mercilessly copied in the decade since – annoying for her, but also gratifying. If she never comes up with another original idea, she’s earned her place in shoe history. As Diana Vreeland  and/or Coco Chanel  said, elegance is refusal. It’s also comfort. ■
从那以后,十年来,霍普遭到了无情的抄袭,这对她来说是喜忧参半的。即使再想不出别的原创点子,她也已在制鞋史上为自己赢得了一席之地。正如戴安娜•弗里兰和/或可可•香奈儿所言,优雅即是取舍。优雅也代表着舒适。□

(译者单位:天津理工大学外国语学院)

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