处女般美轮美奂的原生态景致
——挪威风情

作者:埃德·彼得斯
译者:张兴 (ceozhangxing@yahoo.com.cn)

Spectacular and untouched wilderness awaits visitors
——Ed Peters

“醉人雄壮的户外景致;唯美宜人的室内环境。”挪威以此双重黄金般的魅力吸引着旅游观光者纷至沓往。
There are two prime attractions luring visitors to Norway—the great outdoors, and the great indoors.

挪威拥着众多国家公园。挪威还拥有与国家公园截然不同的、一系列可以让游客们止步驻留、奇特有趣的地方——从古老的旅馆到农场再到渔民小舍,应有尽有。
Contrasting with the country's wealth of scenic national parks is an array of quirky places to stay, from vintage hotels, to working farms, to fisher folks' cabins.

作为斯堪的那维亚半岛三国最北的国家,挪威的西海岸由粗旷崎岖的峡湾围成。冰河时期后所遗留下来的一座又一座巍巍雄山耸立于峡湾侧旁。挪威的土地覆盖面积有38.5万平方公尺,人口只有475万。正因人口稀少的缘故,挪威大部分土地还处于人迹未至的原生态环境中。
The most northerly of the three Scandinavian countries, Norway's western coast is made up of a series of rugged fjords flanked by majestic mountains carved out by the Ice Age. Stretching over some 385,000 sq km, the population is a mere 4.75 million, so the vast majority of Norway is untouched wilderness.

在挪威,除开国家公园外,甚至还有大片大片的自然美景未遭受到人为的破坏。
Even outside the national parks, much of the country is totally unspoiled.

沿山坡飞流直下182米,气势蔚为磅礴的Voringsfossen瀑布位于Mabodalen。到挪威游玩,最受游客青睐的第一站非此瀑布莫属。站在特为搭建的各个瞭望点(观景台)观望而去,该瀑布纯净无瑕、原生原态,令人欲罢不能,真可谓是挪威魅力中的神韵了。
First stop on many visitors mustdo list is the stupendous Voringsfossen waterfall in Mabodalen, which cascades 182 metres down the mountainside. This is the essence of attractions in Norway, pure, natural and compulsive viewing from the many specially built lookout points.

与Voringsfossen瀑布受欢迎程度不分伯仲的景色当属Trollstigen山道。该山道扭捏迂回,蜿蜒而上,一直延伸至Stigfossen瀑布旁的一座峡谷上(该峡谷座落在鲁姆斯达尔Romsdal区中心)。Trollstigen山道不仅仅算得上全球最人令人惊叹的自然美景之一,它更可谓是人类工程史上一项奇迹,足可跻身于全球宏伟大道之列。
Equally popular is the Trollstigen Mountain Road, which zigzags its way up a valley beside the Stigfossen waterfall in the heart of the Romsdal district. This ranks as one of the great drives of the world, a miracle of human engineeing beside one of the most amazing natural landscapes.

在挪威,马路骑士们能找到与如此壮观景色相媲美的道路当属大西洋大道了。大西洋大道往往复复,迂回交错,俯身卧躺于横跨海面的十数座大桥之上。西部海湾的莫尔德(Molde)(每年夏季举办折衷主义爵士乐节)与基斯迪辛特(Kristiansund)之间的许多座岛屿就在这些大桥的衔接之下而相畅通。在冬季,驾车于大西洋大道上,游客们可以亲眼目睹到海中的鲸鱼与海豹,观赏着它们享受阳光的温暖。冬天,许多游客更偏爱独自驱车在大西洋大道之上,感受狂风暴雨啪啪地鞭打着海岸。
Road warriors will find equally spectacular scenery on the Atlantic Road, which bends back and forth over a dozen bridges that jut out over the sea linking the islands between Molde (which hosts an eclectic jazz festival each summer) and Kristiansund in the western fjords. While in summer motorists might spot whales and seals basking in the ocean, many tourists prefer to drive along here in the winter to experience the storms which pound the coast.

挪威以北,与瑙威克(Narvik)港口相邻的罗浮敦群岛(Lofoten Islands)则可使游客们置身于较为轻松柔和的环境之中。一座又一座安逸的村庄星罗棋布于岛屿之间;挪威国内数群最大的筑巢鸟类也在该岛上搭巢筑窝。在这座岛上还有一座活生生的博物馆,这座博物馆是由昔日北欧(Viking)海盗的山寨改建而成。当年,该北欧海盗山寨是由一群考古学家在罗浮敦群岛上一个名叫柏格(Borg)的地方发掘出,而重现于世。在秋天,游客们可以乘上快艇或者搭上普通游船,来上一场海上猎游,观赏着虎鲸游向近海逐猎一群又一群的鲱鱼,没有其他的节目能比此更为激动人心了。
In the north of the country, off the port Narvik, the Lofoten Islands provide a gentler experience, dotted with cosy villages and home to Norway's largest number of nesting birds. A former Viking household, which was excavated by archaeologists at Borg, has been turned into a living museum, while a seaborne safari, aboard a dinghy or a regular passenger boat, is a highlight of any visit in the autumn when killer whales swim offshore to feed on shoals of herring.

挪威的住宿条件可谓是绝无仅有。建造于桑莫尔(Sunnmore)的Union Oye旅馆(一家收藏着具有时代特征文物的古典木质结构旅馆)散发着浓郁的挪威气息。在长达一个多世纪里,该家旅馆一直吸引着四方游客到此下榻驻留。旅馆内27间客房均特意不予安装电视、收音机或者电话;每间客房内均安放着一张四帷柱大床。在客房内往户外远眺,周围峡谷与群山的美景令人应接不暇,目瞪口呆。附近流淌着条条游满鲑鱼的河流,山上还镶嵌着座座湖泊,渔猎鲑鱼的渔夫们可找不出更好的地方了。
Norway's accommodation is uniquely welcoming. Typical of its grand hotels is the Union Oye in Sunnm?re, which has been enchanting guests for more than a century, a classic timber-framed time capsule whose 27 rooms are deliberately without TV, radio or telephone. Each has a four-poster bed, and boasts jaw-dropping views of the surrounding valley and mountains. Nearby rivers teem with salmon, and upland lakes provide unrivalled sport for trout fishermen.

以乡村简朴气息为特色风格的挪威木屋就更为贴近自然了。一间间可供游客们自理膳食的木屋点缀于挪威的乡镇与村庄之间。除了配有起居室和厨房外,这些木屋还配给了浴室和卧房。想要住上一间木屋,而且还配有像可以提供热水的户外浴缸这样现代化便捷家具,游客们就得掏更多的腰包了。亲自打渔的机会自然而然便成为吸引游客们前往挪威木屋留宿的主要原因。去打渔时,游客们可以只身前往;或者乘上当地的船只同船员们共同前去。
Even closer to nature are the many rorbu, or cabins, whose rustic simplicity is a great part of their charm. Dotted among Norway’s towns and villages, self-catering roubu are often little more than living room and kitchen, plus shower and bedroom, though the more expensive may have more modern conveniences such as an outdoor hot tub. Natually, the chief attraction of staying here is the chance to go fishing, either solo or as part of the crew on a local boat.

在挪威,家家户户都会欣然接受到农场一游的机会。游客们可以在农场参与日常劳作,也可以帮忙照料牲畜。挪威的农场大小不一,小型的如山间小农社,大的可像平原上农业大户。在农场,游客们可以去骑骑马、踏踏车或者去划划船。在洛姆(Lom)有一座名为斯特兰德(Strind)的农场,该农场距离约顿汉门(Jotunheimen)山脉不远。斯特兰德农场的景致如画卷一般,是挪威最美丽的农场之一。游客们可置身于该农场木屋旁的花园里,舒舒服服地观赏一群群绵羊嚼草吃食。
Families should jump at the chance to experience a farmstay, taking part in daily activities and helping to look after the animals. The farms vary in size, from mountain smallholdings to large flatland enterprises, and guests may also be able to go horse riding, biking or take a boat trip. One of the most picturesque is Stind Farm in Lom, near the mountains of Jotunheimen, where visitors can watch the sheep graze from the comfort of their cabin’s flower garden.

挪威最令人称奇的旅社当数Preikestolhytta旅社。倒不是该旅社本身非比寻常,而是该旅社得天独厚的选址使其举世瞩目。徒步从该旅社出发,游客们在两个小时内就可以到达帕尔皮特(Pulpit)巨岩。该巨岩面积600平方米,高耸出里瑟峡湾(Lysefjord)将近600米。帕尔皮特巨岩是一座极佳的天然瞭望点,于1000多年前冰河融化后形成。
Perhaps Norway's most amazing lodging is Preikestolhytta, which is remarkable not so much in itself as for its location. It stands a couple of hours' trek from Pulpit Rock, a 600-square-metre plateau which towers some 600 metres over Lysefjord, a marvellous look-out point created by nature when the glacier melted around 10,000 years ago.

挪威国内的餐厅与咖啡馆则继续传达着挪威室内的乐趣。在这些餐馆和咖啡厅里内招待着令人垂涎欲滴的当地菜肴。典型的挪威早餐有棕色黄羊奶酪(geitost)——味重但带有甜味;酸乳酪甜粥(rommegrot)——由天然酸奶油熬煮而成,配上黄油、桂肉及蔗糖加以食用;早餐还包括有燻鲑鱼和炒蛋。玉米饼夹火腿肠(polse i lompe)是午餐里一道上佳的点心;而肉丸(kjottaber)——油炸肉丸,加以豌豆和煮熟的土豆一起食用——是一道常规的晚餐菜肴。燉羊头(smalahove)——由整个羊头燉煮而成,不剔除羊眼——是一道传统的节日佳肴。挪威人一开始较为反感燉羊头这道菜,但后来慢慢习惯并且喜欢上了。
The delights of the great indoors continue in Norway's restaurants and cafes, which serve a variety of intriguing local dishes. Breakfasts typically include geitost, brown goats' cheese that has a sharp yet sweet flavour, rommegrot — a porridge made from natural sour cream and served with butter, cinnamon and sugar — and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. At lunchtime, the hot dog served in a tortilla known as polse i lompe makes a good snack, while kjottkaker — fried meatballs with peas and boiled potatoes  — is a regular dinner dish. The traditional festive smalahove (boiled sheep’s head, including the eyes) is something of an acquired taste.

挪威国内盛产着新鲜的农场品,这些农产品就形成了该国菜系的主要特色。在挪威,微乎其微的污染条件和丰饶充裕的草木资源,确保了该国羊肉在全球享誉盛名;冰冷的沿海水域里鱼类资源充沛丰富;柑橘类水果在长时日照下,芳香扑鼻,甚至连封包的水果包装箱都会散透出诱人的清香。以上这些食品构成了挪威人餐桌上三餐不可或缺的美味佳肴。
Much of the attraction of Norwegian cuisine is the abundance of fresh produce in the country. Minimal pollution and rich vegetation ensure that the country's lamb is some of the tastiest in the world, fish thrive in the cold coastal waters, and sunlit long days mean that citrus fruit is packed with flavour, providing a delicious conclusion to every meal.

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